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Aerial view of the beach and dunes from the balcony

Journal · Nature

A morning at MacArthur Beach

The county's only state park sits a few minutes north, where the built coast stops and old Florida takes over. A morning there is the easy counterweight to a day on the resort sand.

The drive north

A few minutes north of the residence, past the last of Singer Island's towers, the road crosses a low bridge and the built coast just stops. On the far side is John D. MacArthur Beach State Park, the only state park in Palm Beach County, and close to two miles of barrier-island sand left mostly to itself. Where the beach below the residence is raked, chaired and served, this one is dune, sea grape and open coast, all of it protected.

That contrast is the whole reason to go. The resort beach is for a slow, served morning; MacArthur is for the Florida that was here before the towers. You leave after breakfast, drive the short way up the island's main road, and you are on the boardwalk not long after. Rideshare will bring you, though a car makes it simpler to carry a cooler and come and go on your own clock.

What a morning here holds

  • The nature center and its live sea turtles, the natural first stop.
  • A long boardwalk over the lagoon to the beach on the far side.
  • Kayaks out to Munyon Island across a sheltered estuary.
  • An open, natural beach with a very old reef just offshore.

Start in the nature center

Start indoors, even on a perfect beach day. The William T. Kirby Nature Center sits on the mainland side of the park, and it is the piece that turns a nice stretch of sand into something you understand. It is small and well made: clear exhibits on the four habitats the park protects, the beach and dune, the coastal hammock, the mangrove estuary and the nearshore reef, laid out so that by the time you walk back outside you can read the landscape instead of just looking at it.

The residents most people come for are the live loggerhead sea turtles. Seeing one up close, before you set foot on the beach, changes how you behave out there. You notice the shape of the tracks in the morning sand, and you understand why the dunes are roped off and the lights along this coast are kept low. Around the turtles you will find tanks of the smaller local life, the fish and crabs you meet again in the water later.

Worth asking at the desk

  • What talks or guided walks are running that day.
  • Whether the kayaks are out, and the hours they keep.
  • What the tide and the surf are doing before you commit to a swim.
The beach and dunes seen from the residence balcony
The beach and dunes seen from the residence balcony

The boardwalk over the lagoon

To reach the beach, you walk. A long wooden boardwalk lifts you over the shallow lagoon that lies between the mainland and the barrier-island shore, and the crossing is not a chore to get past. It is one of the best parts of the morning. Below you is a broad, calm estuary, part of the larger Lake Worth system, its bottom laced with seagrass and fringed by mangroves.

Look down and you tend to see life without trying. Small fish flicker over the grass, wading birds work the far bank, and in the warmer months, if the water is still, you may catch the slow gray back of a manatee rolling up for a breath. The mangroves are the nursery that feeds all of it, their roots sheltering the young fish and crabs that in turn feed the birds. Interpretive signs along the rail name what you are looking at, and the boardwalk is level and railed the whole way, easy for almost anyone in your party.

Walk it slowly

  • Stop halfway and give the estuary five quiet minutes; it rewards stillness.
  • Carry your own water and shade, since there are no shops on the far side.
  • Keep shoes on, because the boards get warm by the middle of the day.

Kayaks to Munyon Island

The best way to know the estuary is to get down onto it. The park rents kayaks, single and double, generally through the middle of the day, roughly nine until around three, so everyone is off the water before closing. You launch into the sheltered lagoon rather than the open ocean, which makes it one of the friendlier paddles around for beginners, families, and anyone who has not held a paddle in years.

The natural destination is Munyon Island, the low green island in the lagoon at the north end of the park. It is a short, protected trip from the launch, and it gives the morning a shape: somewhere to point the bow, a shoreline to work around, a quiet loop before you turn back. The island has a longer story than its stillness suggests. More than a century ago it held a health resort, built by a man who made his name selling remedies and saw this coast much the way people do now, as a place you come to get well. The buildings are long gone, the edges replanted with native mangroves, and the shallows draw wading birds to feed and roost.

Before you push off

  • Go earlier rather than later, while the water is still glass and the wind is down.
  • Ask staff which way the tide is running before you commit to a long loop.
  • Give any manatee room; stop paddling and let it pass.
The surf line, sand and dunes seen from above
The surf line, sand and dunes seen from above

The beach on the far side

On the ocean side, the boardwalk delivers you to a dune crossover and then to the beach itself: open, natural, and free of the neat rows you find at the resort. It is quieter and wilder than the town beaches, with dune plants growing down toward the sand. On a calm, clear day there is one more thing worth doing before you head back.

Just offshore, in the shallows, sits a natural rock reef you can snorkel straight from the sand. It is Anastasia limestone, something like a hundred and twenty-five thousand years old, and drifting over it you may find reef squid shifting color as they watch you, small fish grazing the rock, and the long shapes of snook in the current. It works only when the surf is down and the water is clear, so read the day before you swim out, wear water shoes for the rock, and never snorkel alone.

From spring into fall the beach belongs partly to the sea turtles, so if your trip lands in the season, keep it dark at night and give roped-off nests a wide berth. Then it is back over the boardwalk for lunch.

Read on

A bedroom corner opening to the balcony and the ocean beyond

The Residence

Stay at OASENA

A private two-bedroom home on the twelfth floor of the Happiness Tower: floor-to-ceiling ocean views, a wide balcony, and the resort's wellness centre an elevator ride below. Dates and rates are on Airbnb.

OASENA is a privately owned residence within Amrit Ocean Resort & Residences and is not operated by, affiliated with, or endorsed by the resort. See credits & notes.